Fresh from a Bob Dylan art preview at Halcyon Gallery on Bond Street, my companion and I arrive at the newly refurbished The Grill with a serious bout of the munchies. Whether a fan of the actor Steve McQueen or not (the restaurant is a full on design and memorabilia tribute to him) anybody who has the slightest penchant for a decent piece of steak should pay this place a visit. We’re talking mouthwateringly delicious, scrumptiously fresh British cuts of prime juicy beef. We popped in on an icy Thursday evening and were looked after superbly by the delectable Abigail, a girl who knows her menu inside out and will recommend and suggest as much or as little as you desire. Although the brand new bar boasts a hard-hitting cocktail list, we played it safe and ordered a gin martini each, shaken not stirred, a pungent olive happily sitting on top, a drink I feel tests the prowess of a good mixologist. Our verdict: 10/10. The intimate, atmospheric dining room is approached through a lively lounge bar, dark banquette seating and leather chesterfields fill a large space, French gilt-wood frames containing McQueen photography adorn the walls. Large warehouse sized windows and lofty ceilings dotted with halogen lights create an interesting New York nightclub style vibe, whilst retaining an air of British elegance.
First up, my guest’s pan-fried crab cakes were a winner. Two generous patties stuffed with light, fluffy crab meat, seared just so, tasty. My London cured smoked salmon was as expected – nicely oaked without being too overpowering and zesty. The pickles and rye bread accompanied the dish perfectly. It is rare I can select the steak on a menu without feeling really guilty about not ordering something more elaborate. We both chomped away enthusiastically on a lovingly grilled, 28-day aged, 300g fillet of beef. Smooth, succulent, uber-fresh. A side order of smoked cheddar macaroni cheese, triple-cooked chips and chantenay carrots accompanied the meat nicely, the macaroni not too heavy. Although this place is a steak lover’s dream, the varied menu on the day of our visit presented chicken, fish of the day and lamb chops as interesting alternatives. It would be madness – and quite rude – to leave without sampling the sticky toffee pudding, a seriously indulgent, all encompassing power dessert, simply presented. A pastry chef is busy working miracles in the kitchen, the freshness of the dates and syrupy toffee thoughtfully and magically entwined. Diners seeking an altogether more eclectic alternative to Hawksmoor should look no further.
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