A month or so ago we stumbled upon a new continental establishment, something so pleasant and entrenched in its own philosophy, that it took us quite a while to digest the ethos and tell you all about it. Roma London, situated in this fully gentrified, culinary quarter of the city, a short stroll from infamous Fenchurch Street Station. The brief but cleverly laid-out menu is a reinvention of the flavours and passions of ancient Rome and inspired by the rich and vibrant history of London, the place it calls home. Fun fact: Roma is located where the ‘Londonium’ Roman fort once stood. In typical Italian elegance, Roma has been thoughtfully designed and is an abundance of delightfully opulent metallic hues and gleaming gold - mosaic inspired artwork adorn the walls. Generous tables are dressed simply and with plenty of space, comfortable yet decadent banquette seating ensures the dining room is used well. Mood lighting, bright but atmospheric, promises a sublime dining experience. Roma’s concept is loosely lifted from ‘apicius’, a much-loved Roman recipe book, and finely tuned by consultant chef Steton Steele who, with many years at the healm of a top Hampshire gastropub, has mastered the delicate cooking styles so often missed in Italian gastronomy, and carefully brings locally sourced ingredients of verdant freshness. This has by default become Steele’s signature style and Roma’s culinary speciality. Steele has beautifully created a selection of mouth-wateringly irresistible dishes, all bursting with a rich, earthy flavour.
First up, two generous tuna steaks, moist and fleshy, arrived snuggly packaged in glossy green vine leaves, accompanied by fresh leaks and olives. A ladle of risotto, creamy yet perfectly firm, joined the fish. My companion happily chomped away on a slow-cooked leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary, meltingly scrumptious, pleasantly joined by a sticky lavender and honey sauce. Heaven! Our informed waiter insisted we sample the parsley butter and samphire gnocchi, agreeable if a little too herby, and we couldn’t resist the temptation of a helping of nicely fluffy, crispy-coated triple-cooked chips served with – wait for it - bacon jam, a theatrical inclusion maybe, but a conjoining of two food families which is bound to catch on. Try them, they’re just brilliant.
Roma’s sommelier has gallivanted all over the place and settled on, understandably, a large selection of wines from Rome and its environs, and from both northern and southern Italy. Other regions of the Roman Empire, including France, Spain, Portugal, Macedonia and Greece, also get a mention. City cocktail chasers will adore the signature concoction, Roma, which is expertly prepared in full view with berry flavoured caviar, Beefeater gin, elderflower liquour, a splash of zesty lemon juice, topped with Champagne. Anything containing caviar and Champagne, preferably served in brisk succession, always gets my vote. Fruity, sophisticated and aromatic. A perfect little helping of Italy in London.
Having perhaps overindulged in the plentiful main course department, my guest and I agreed to share a dessert. The apricot and ratafia cake arrived looking very jolly, accompanied by a dash of light rose water crème anglaise, floral, experimental with just enough sweetness. Having wolfed this one down, we were promptly presented with another. 10/10 to the attentive pastry chef. Pop down for a look, it's a smasher.
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