Having made the seemingly arduous but in reality speedy journey from London’s Park Lane to the delightful village of Taplow in the Berkshire countryside, Michelin-starred Andre Garrett has curated a menu that is both extravagant and simple. British classics are injected with continental touches, such as the joyful spring pea velouté accompanied by gnocchi, goats curd and wild garlic oil.
Brought to its knees by two ravaging fires and then having been exquisitely revamped in recent years, Cliveden was originally built by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham in 1666. Since then, it has entertained royalty, heads of state, film stars and socialites. It is currently undergoing an extensive refurbishment project, but do not let that put off a visit; Cliveden has a remarkable way of masking such banalities.
Sweeping up the gravel drive, the handsome pile appears, just as expected; resplendent, formiddable and elegant. In the great hall, furnished exquisitely with intricate tapestries, Seventeenth and Eighteenth century oil paintings hang in gilded frames overlooking thoughtfully arranged chairs and tables awaiting afternoon tea.
Originally located in the basement, but now taking pride of place on the ground floor, the grand dining room has been painstakingly refurbished, creating a fresh, modern space in which to marvel through the full height sash windows at the stone terrace and manicured gardens beyond.
First up was a firm al dente raviolo of native lobster, filled with an intensely nourishing basil-infused bisque.
Three generous Isle of Skye scallops were perfectly seared and springy, accompanied by a melee of fresh peas and shoots, and the most delightfully pastel green coloured lovage velouté that was ever concocted.
Pressed foie gras terrine was lovingly made with vibrant vadouvan spices and cool mango.
A rich, gamey new season Devon lamb was joined by crisp lettuce, young garlic and onion puree, not forgetting lashings of luxurious silky pommes boulangere.
Our informed and adventurous sommelier, Guillaume, recommended a delightful late harvest sauvignon blanc from Casablanca Valley, Chile (2010), which was dry and elegant with rich vanilla and honey notes. The red choice, a smooth Chateau Caronnes Ste-Gemme, from Bordeaux, France (2005), was seductive and soft with a vivid ruby hue.
My rare fillet of Lake District Longhorn beef did not disappoint; a gratifyingly large oval flash-grilled side served with a bundle of slow-roasted Roscoff onions and a pungent snail persillade.
An extra large helping of thick, creamy Lincolnshire poacher mash worked its magic. Garrett has a gift for texture as well as flavour; nouvelle cuisine is most certainly not in his vocab. Rich, bold colours and a creative use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients offer guests the very finest of British dining in exquisite surroundings. Our midweek visit on a glorious May afternoon was a highlight of the year and an absolute joy.
Lose yourself in the acres of lush grounds, take a small boat on the Thames or indulge in one of the many treatments at the luxe spa – you’ll never want to leave.
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