Axis, located in the double-height basement of the imposing One Aldwych hotel at the very end of the Strand, provides a sleek, elegant dining experience with an abundance of knowledgeable staff, contemporary interiors and thoughtfully arranged tables. An expanse of floor to ceiling bamboo shoots and clever lighting provide an intimate journey of space and sophistication.
Executive chef Dominic Teague, formerly at the helm of the Sandy Lane Hotel, Barbados, has created a delightfully modern menu with a strong focus on seasonal British ingredients, foraged foods and forgotten flavours.
The extensive, British-inspired menu offers classics as well as some adventurous additions. My companion declared the wild mushroom consommé ‘fresh and joyful’ (£8). Two plump diver scallops excited with a delicate, fleshy consistency and buttery taste (£14). A zesty pomegranate dressing partnered the dish immaculately.
A generous portion of ice white Atlantic cod fillet was truly delightful; delicious creamy morsels generously accompanied by puy lentils, baby onions and nicely salty pancetta (£19).
Presented with a heap of pleasant crushed potatoes and a pungent yet welcome shellfish vinaigrette, the wild sea bass was firm, succulent and buttery (£20). Creamed desiree potatoes and tender-stem broccoli were pleasurable.
Other dishes which tempted were risotto of English asparagus, Denham Castle lamb and honey-glazed Domme duck.
Desserts did not disappoint and included the trio of dark, white and milk chocolate tasting Valrhona – pleasantly light and buttery (£8), and a ginormous vanilla Crème Brulee – lightly spiced and perfectly flambéed, revealing a thick, nutty and creamy centre (£7).
A super selection of French and British cheeses include Saint Tola Ash, Waterloo, Montgomery’s cheddar and pave de l’Aveyron.
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