Arbutus, taken from the Latin world ‘Ericaceae’, meaning a family of fourteen species of flowering plants, has certainly stood the test of time, having launched eight years ago. The proof is most definitely in the pudding as it competes competently against relative newcomers such as Dean Street Townhouse and Social Eating House.
Located at the quieter, leafy end of Frith Street in London’s trendy Soho, an area which has successfully reinvented itself from seedy party place to hip hangout.
Founded by chef extraordinaire Anthony Demetre, former chef-director of Michelin-starred Putney Bridge, in South London, who boasts Marco Pierre White and Pierre Koffman amongst his tutors, and Will Smith, the former restaurant manager of now closed L’Odeon, Regent Street.
The excitable Maitre d', Jeremy, treated us to a glass of Sussex vineyard Court Garden's delightfully crisp and elegant classic cuvee brut (£13). Fresh, bold and bubbly, it is acclaimed by the UKVA who have awarded it one of their silver winners.
As tempted as we were by the Dorset crab with avocado guacamole, peanut and mango, we opted for the slow-cooked veal shoulder of bolognese with pappardelle, parmesan and olive oil (£7.50). The fresh, could-be-in-Bologna dish with just the right amount of salt was rich, thick and warming on such a chilly evening. Crisp pig’s head titillated; fine, tender meat encased in a crunchy, honeyed crust (£8).
My companion’s fillet of sea bass was as it should be: creamy, light and agreeable. Accompanied by a bold, divine (his word) blood orange sauce, fragrant caramelised endive and deep green curly kale (£19). My choice of English beef was flash-grilled to perfection – juicy and luscious, complemented by a bitter Swiss chard, creamy bonito butter, crispy shallots and a ramekin of brilliantly executed, firm gratin dauphinois (£21).
The jolly, constantly changing wine list was presented with informed recommendations such as the French 2011 Crozes-Hermitage, which offered a delightful experience of crisp, buttery notes. German Spatburgunder Blauscheifer, also 2011, offered an opulent, smooth-bodied experience. The option to order every single wine (bar two) - many of which are either organic or biodynamic - as a 250ml carafe is a genius one.
Chocoholics must try the Chocolate soup. Served warm with a cooling cardamom ice cream, it was luxurious and velvety with a salty caramel base (£6). The Rum baba, served with lashings of Havana club, Chantilly and pineapple (£8) was charming.
My only regret was not sampling the Prune & Almond martini which, described as ‘warming and very moreish', muddles homemade infused prune vodka, Amaretto and almond syrup. Pure bliss!
If sister restaurants, Wild Honey in Mayfair and Les Deux Salons in Covent Garden share similar dining treats, both should expect a visit very soon.
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