And so to Dorset Square in London’s Marylebone, where popular new launches such as Andre Balazs’s Chiltern Firehouse, Southern American haunt The Lockhart, and serial pop-up Carousel, which has just secured a five-year residency on Blandford Street, have cemented its reputation as a premier destination for world-class hospitality and cuisine. One of eight London hotels from the eponymous Firmdale Group, founders Tim and Kit Kemp sure know how to kit-out a period building. This particular one houses 38 beautifully designed bedrooms – all with eclectic English touches – and many overlooking the garden square which was once home to Thomas Lord’s very first cricket ground.
The cavernous basement has been converted into a sleek, bright restaurant and bar, which offers modern British culinary delights in a jolly cricket-themed space. The buzzy bar serves Firmdale’s inventive signature cocktails, where are only quandary was which to sample first. The creamy, punchy Chocolate Orange was an instant hit; Mandarin Napoleon, Bailey’s, Frangelico and Mozart liqueur, blended with a dash of bitters and cooled with double cream. As was the refreshing, palate-cleansing Parisian Pear; Grey Goose La Poire and Crème de Mure muddled with fresh blackberries and cranberry juice. Other temptations include the Gooseberry Fool, and a White Chocolate Martini with Raspberry Coulis.
We were impressed by the powerful juxtaposition of flavours in the pheasant, rabbit and wood pigeon terrine with a lively piccalilli, and a lovingly cured sea trout, avocado salad with lemon oil. Our main courses were brilliantly executed. Particular favourites included the mature Aberdeenshire fillet of beef served with a translucent béarnaise sauce which, priced at £29.50, rivals City hotspots Goodman, Hawksmoor and Gaucho in the tenderness and authenticity department. My companion’s healthy option of roast Suffolk chicken was declared “perfectly tender” and “meltingly delicious”, with the accompaniment of a punchy celeriac puree, salsify and carrots.
Traditional international desserts have been carefully injected with British eccentricity such as the butternut squash crème brulee, where the winter squash was set off perfectly by the rich, creaminess of the brulee, and the red wine poached pear splendidly accompanied by a thick crème fraiche.
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