London’s insatiable appetite for culinary launches welcomed one more last week – the wonderfully named Margot in Covent Garden – an Italian restaurant centred on tying together exceptional service and authentic cuisine in a polished, lively setting. Responsible for this venture are seasoned industry professionals and perennial charmers Paulo de Tarso, previously maître d’ of the Mandarin Oriental’s Bar Boulud; and Nicolas Jaouën of Mayfair’s La Petite Maison fame. Joining them to take on the role of Head Chef is Maurizio Morelli. The cream of Italy, all in one dining room.
The trio bring years of success, experience and insider knowledge to the table, and aim to create a restaurant that truly understands, appreciates and celebrates the best of Italy – its food, service and style. Theatre-packed Covent Garden is a bold shout in terms of location, and only time will tell if they can lure well-heeled carpaccio-seekers from nearby Mayfair and Knightsbridge. The interiors, designed by Fabled Studio (the masterminds behind Ceviche Old Street and Dinner by Heston) are inspired by the glamour and rustic charm of Italian art and craft; specifically, famed architect-designers Gio Ponti and Carlo Mollino, and feature an elegant palette of deep blues, pale marble and copper accents across two floors. The setting, in the words of de Tarso, is “warm and inviting, while at the same time bringing that energy of a little bit of excitement and allure”.
Combining his classical training and rich Italian childhood, Morelli will bring a taste of Italy’s various and extensive gastronomic regions to Londoners and international diners alike. The menu focuses on delicate, flavourful plates of cured meats, tartare, salads, homemade pasta, and meat and fish dishes, many of which will be available in two portion sizes; the emphasis is on allowing guests greater control over their meal, thus keeping them at the centre of the dining experience.
First up, the polpo stufato, or stewed octopus. Decent-sized spongy cubes of octopus, cooked just so, and perfectly accompanied by a wonderfully light chick-pea puree, escarole and marjoram. A crema di zucca arrosto, or roast pumpkin soup, arrived a gorgeously bright orange liquid – the vivid brightness one only sees in children’s drawings – together with the unusual but welcome addition of a sweet amaretti crumble dusted with toasted pumpkin seeds.
An almond-crusted fillet of tuna must have been immaculately flash-seared on a high heat. On closer inspection, the centre was perfectly pink, encased in a dark crispy coating of not overpowering almonds. Just delicious. Anything ‘wrapped in’ when dining out is often heavy and with an unpleasant surprise inside. Not at Margot. Here, a juicy West Country monkfish has been lovingly folded in tightly trimmed pancetta and placed next to cannellini beans, a hint of black truffle and quail eggs. 10/10. Go for the steamed broccoli and rosemary potatoes – heaven. We were practically forced into trying a dessert from the list, which appeared to offer something for even the most intolerable of diners. The mousse al cioccolato was insanely tasty, the kind of end to a meal that is quite rare. Fresh raspberries and Morello cherries are made for chocolate and when the pastry chef is this skilled, how could we say no?
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