Not too long ago, we experienced a culinary journey so thoughtful and vibrant, so scrumptious, so exciting that we immediately rebooked for another visit. Sakagura, which launched on gastronomic hotspot Heddon Street, in London’s Mayfair, just before Christmas, is a celebration of brilliance. A journey through Washoku, the traditional food of Japan, the sleek restaurant’s menu shares a mix of rice, miso, pickles and fresh, seasonal fish and seafood. This place will become an absolute joy for sake lovers (the carefully curated list, compiled by expert sake sommeliers, boasts 80 varieties). Executive Chef Kanji Furukawa and his right-hand man, Jin Yackshin, are thinking big – a constantly changing seasonal menu and daily specials are not easy to keep up. Upon arrival, a beautiful garden terrace can be found at the front of the restaurant, with large canopies and powerful heaters offering plenty of warmth - even on a frosty winter lunchtime. The elegant and sleek interiors shout glamour and style but, don’t be fooled, this place is all about the intriguing menu. The main dining room stuns with double-height industrial ceilings painted brushed black. Pale wood features highly, both in the intimate booth tables and the dramatic bar, where beautifully embroidered original thatched sake kegs hang overhead. The open kitchen is all brushed steel and Japanese minimalism. We settled upon the day’s set menu, sharing absolutely everything. First up, our appetisers were flame-seared mackerel ceviche (as incredible as it sounds), and sashimi moriawase (a selection of assorted sashimi selected by chef). What can only be described as a work of art arrived, resplendent, complete with mini ice feature. Generous chunks of seabass, tuna and salmon glistened as they filled three gigantic oyster shells. Each offering a creamy smoothness with every bite.
On to the next course, Kamameshi, and our selection; goosnargh chicken rubbed with fragrant burdock. The chicken plump and soft when devoured, the burdock - a popular addition in Japanese dining - bringing a sweet, slightly earthy elegance to the dish. What could possibly arrive now that would supersede the previous courses in terms of flavour and presentation? Well, how about a blackened lobster with moshio brown sea salt and lime? The lobster’s super-potent lean flesh clearly benefiting from its precision preparation in the kitchen. The salt and zesty lime transforming the crustacean nicely. As the salmon teriyaki arrived, my companion and I found ourselves glued to our seats, tails wagging. But it is not the actual food at Sakagura that you’ll adore. It is the manner in which each dish is lovingly presented, wonderfully luminous, straightforward. It is a splendid medley of Asian-Fusion, reworked. Absolutely do not leave without sampling the dark chocolate wasabi ice-cream. It is tremendously naughty but just brilliant.
NINE is a private concierge club, providing tailored travel and lifestyle solutions to individuals and families across the globe.