A brisk trot from Green Park underground, located on the ground floor and basement of a grand stucco-fronted mansion at the Hyde Park end of Piccadilly, Coya is the latest success from serial restaurateur, Arjun Waney, of Roka and Zuma fame.
Coya boldly claims to “bring the spirit of Latin America to London”. In reality, it does far more than this. Guests are transported into a dream world of tantalising flavours, century-old aperitifs and staff that exude passion, knowledge and a genuine love for the cuisine.
Ximo, our charming Majorcan waiter, welcomed us warmly with Coya’s signature cocktail, the Peruvian Pisco Sour (pisco liqueur, lime juice, syrup, ice, egg white and Angostura bitters). Designed as an alternative to the Whisky Sour, although having originated in 1920s Lima, Peru, it was actually invented by an American and was a favourite tipple of the Peruvian upper class.
I found myself mesmerised by the exquisite Pisco Bar, which offers an elaborate selection of bespoke pisco infusions and over forty varieties of tequila and rums, all superbly displayed nestled amongst coloured antique decanters.
Ceviches, or seafood tapas-style mini plates, are currently on-trend in London, although Coya’s must surely be among the best. Lubina Clasico (£8) offered refreshing fleshy pieces of light, tasty sea bass accompanied by red onions, sweet potato and white corn. Atun Nikkei (£12) was a huge hit - wafers of mouthwatering yellowfin tuna, ginger and a tangy chilli salsa.
The biggest fanfare of the night was deciding upon which Antichuchos (marinated skewers fired on a charcoal grill) to order. After much debate, we agreed on the Tradicional (£7.50, Ox heart, parsley and aji rocoto). Thick, fruity pieces of flesh which, although delicious, felt quite wrong. Tender and firm, the Pollo (£5) with aji amarillo (mild chilli pepper) and garlic excited and surprised.
Another hit came in the form of fish (parrillada de pescado), the delightfully named Lubina Chilena (£27), or Chilean sea bass comfortably sat amongst some more aji amarillo and was set off magnificently by a cool, dry glass of Brazillian sauvignon blanc.
The Solomillo de Res was a succulent, lightly spiced delight of beef fillet, spring onions, aji rocoto and star anise (£32). Sprouting broccoli with chilli, garlic butter and sesame (£5) was both crunchy and fresh with just enough garlic. Traditional Patatas Bravas a la Peruana (£5) were lightly fried pieces of potato shaken with fresh spicy tomatoes accompanied by a pleasant cheese, onion and chilli sauce (named huancaina).
The superbly named Chocolate Fundido (£8), a famous Peruvian confectionary, is made using the exclusive, one-of-a-kind Fortunato No. 4 chocolate. Made with 40% white cocoa beans, it offers a rich, creamy, slightly fresher-than-normal chocolate experience. Perfectly accompanied with roasted white chocolate ice cream. Beware: this is pure decadence!
For the ultimate in grand Mayfair dining, enquire about the private members’ lounge on the ground floor. Sophistication personified.
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