Acclaimed chef Marcus Wareing and his expert team have created a charmingly British brasserie and bar, offering a modern, all-day dining experience with an inventive menu showcasing the very best of seasonal produce, classic cocktails and a thoughtfully curated wine list.
Proudly housed in the west wing of Sir George Gilbert Scott’s 1873 gothic masterpiece, the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, the extravagant dining room blends eighteenth century grandeur with chic banquette-style seating and bold, lavish furnishings. Opened by Queen Victoria, the elegant interiors evoke a bygone era of glamour, style and panache.
My guest and I cooed upon being presented with two glasses of sparkling ‘Knightsbridge’ Blanc de Noir from Ridgeway’s Sussex vineyard. A flamboyant experience with toasty, lingering notes.
Exquisitely presented cocktails include The Londonist; Bombay Sapphire gin, Cynar, orange bitters and sloe gin (£12.50), and the refreshing Zamzibreeze; Koko Kanu coconut rum, green Chartreuse, cucumber, banana and cardamom (£13.50).
A delightfully thick mulligatawny of curry spice, lentils, sweet potato, cauliflower and pistachio hit the spot (£7.50), while my guest’s bundle of brilliant white sweet Dorset crab excited (£10.50). Other tempting creations include a scallop and mackerel tartare accompanied by gooseberry, kohlrabi and radish, and smoked trout with ricotta, peas, lemon and mint.
Two generously sized, creamy sea bass fillets (£21.00) arrived perfectly seared, accompanied with lightly seasoned dhal and a punchy green chilli yoghurt with just a hint of cooling coriander. Wareing has a talent for not overcomplicating his dishes and the chicken, Dorset snail and leek pie (£19.50) was the evening’s winner. Large pieces of tender chicken accompanied by small creamy mouthfuls of snail and smooth leek ensconced in a light puff-pastry case. The insightful somellier introduced a delightfully crisp Bianca di Evro from Sicily, Italy, which was delicate and soft with pear and vanilla top notes.
Sweet English strawberries smothered in rich clotted cream and an inventive peanut butter choc ice left us wanting to make a return booking tout de suite.
The restaurant’s private dining room, situated adjacent to the bar, seats eighteen in an inspiring, art deco space. We recommend food fanatics reserve the Kitchen Table and experience the energising thrill of one-on-one culinary entertainment, whilst being seated directly in front of the chef’s area.
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