Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows is not just a fine dining restaurant, it is a totally immersive, all encompassing sense tingling culinary journey. Since its debut ten years ago, it has fast become a stalwart on London’s gastronomic scene and, upon visiting, one can instantly understand why. The restaurant’s elegant, art-deco inspired interior evokes the glamorous golden age of the early 1930s, befittingly located atop the Hilton Park Lane. Great swathes of expansive, floor-to-ceiling windows provide incredible 360-degree panoramas of the whole of London and its iconic sites and landmarks, from the stark towers of Canary Wharf in the east to the ornate palaces and parks of the west.
Chef-Patron Chris Galvin and his team, expertly led by Head Chef Joo Won, have worked closely together to create seasonally inspired menus based around modern French haute cuisine, all while sourcing and using the freshest most seasonal British ingredients. The accompanying bar houses an array of classic and signature cocktails, with a bespoke snack menu (inspired by the link between sense and memory) created for the Autumn-Winter 2016 season under the artful direction of bar manager Tiago Serrao. For those partial to something a little stronger, the enviable whisky and gin collection is worth a sample. The concise drinks menu can be accompanied with sophisticated nibbles from the tapas-style late-night menu. Don’t leave without trying the orange jam gimlet cocktail. Heavenly.
First up, a flash-fried yellowfin tuna steak arrived looking firm and fleshy, and upon further inspection its centre nicely spongy and full of meaty flavour. Happily nestled beside it was a beautifully braided octopus – firm to the bite and creamy – accompanied by bitter pink grapefruit, a lush buttery kimchi risotto, Burford brown egg, sesame and tangy spring onion. A frankly wonderful seared fillet of brill arrived, cooked just so, and accompanied by a surprisingly light and mellow Suffolk pork belly (crackly but pleasantly light to bite) - joined by strips of luxurious artichoke.
My guest chomped away enthusiastically on a beautifully roasted fillet of Scotch beef and a dark, buttery and moody foie gras. The creamed mushrooms, truffle and deep red wine jus all marvellous companions to the smooth beef.
A Valhrona chocolate sphere, a regular feature at restaurants of this calibre, must be applauded for its appearance alone. But it is the smooth internal syrupy texture and cooling milk foam, biskella cremeux and orange ice cream that make the dish noteworthy.
It would be madness – and quite rude – to leave without sampling the caramelised apple tart, with frangipane and Madagascan vanilla ice cream, and the coconut glazed cake with pineapple and chili sorbet. Pastry chefs are the unsung heroes of the culinary world and puddings like the ones at Galvin are what fine dining is all about. Fresh flavours, thoughtfully and beautifully entwined. A big thumbs up. Galvin fans must head to the newly opened Galvin at The Athenaeum, just a short stroll away on Piccadilly, for casual British dining with a large dollop of fun.
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