A new wave of independent, top-notch restaurants are launching all over the capital but it is the remarkable transformation of the once corporate and dusty Lower Regent Street that has perhaps seen the biggest change. Dark, towering office buildings and dimly lit alleyways have given way to sleek, glassy architecturally gorgeous gems. Among these, and sitting proudly at 1. St James’s Market, is Aquavit, a contemporary Nordic all-day dining room, the sister restaurant to the original, much-heralded New York outpost. Aquavit London is very special indeed. An expansive, bright dining hall, surrounded on two sides by floor-to-ceiling windows, with a smart bar on one side. Two rows of banquette seating, where we were happily deposited, were comfortable, if a little too closely situated to our fellow diners. There’s a touch of Jason Atherton about the grand design and menu styling, and the staff are cheery and insightful, dressed elegantly in crisp beige tops and ironed jeans. The clever thing about Aquavit is that it offers diners a glimpse into Nordic cuisine, rather than force-feeding you ancient recipes that most know little about. It is a simple but perfectly executed presentation of scrumptious treats, dominated by fish and seafood, constantly changing with the seasons, lovingly foraged by the ingenious kitchen team. Breakfast includes usual city favourites such as smoked salmon, avocado and poached eggs, as well as kippers and vendace roe. The lunch set menu will, I’m sure, prove popular, offering clever pairings, such as Jerusalem artichoke soup, baked cod with chanterelles, charred cabbage and salsify, and beef brisket served with root vegetable mash, mustard and horseradish. Our choices were as bright and glossy as they were delicious. My companion chomped away enthusiastically on meaty langoustines, smoked eel and a pleasant dill broth. The lobster was just brilliant; chargrilled and fleshy, easy to extract from the giant claws. Perfection.
Next up, the turbot, an interesting inclusion, fleshier and glossier than cod, accompanied by a fiery horseradish and brown butter, did little to dampen our burgeoning excitement. Upon our waiter’s confident recommendation, we shared the Swedish meatballs. Marvellously creamy, joined by Aquavit favourite lingonberries and pickled cucumber. Every last one was wolfed back, accompanied by a pleasant, peachy English Hambledon classic cuvée brut. Having just returned from Tanzania, and suffering from a touch of mal d’Afrique, I selected the South African Mullineux Kloof Street chenin blanc from the carefully selected wine list, which turned out to be a delight, offering a buttery, cream-like texture and just a hint of fruit. Other tempting options come from California, France and Italy. The sleek ground floor bar is totally made for those seeking to sample one of the little chaps from the fancy smørgasborg menu, such as shrimp skagen and mackerel tartare, while observing the glamorous crowd enjoy this trendy new hotspot. Go on, go Nordic.
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